martes, 8 de octubre de 2013


UNKNOWN "Altamachi" VIRGIN River

Altamachi River is among the ridges of Cocapata (Cochabamba) and Mosetenes (Beni) in BOLIVIA - South America.
Its headwaters are on the tops of all the mountains near the town of Altamachi and Miscuni.

This expedition  was desired for many years for being an unexplored river, unspoiled and legends woven a magnificent treasure stored in his heart, was certainly encouraged desires that run.

I imagine how difficult it would be to enter the river, lack of roads, especially NOT having a complete map of the place. I decided to leave the fascinating and hidden myth and legends written questions about this place as the three nipples - the Rio de Oro (Qory Mayu) - the large covered - so huge fish and animals.

On Friday July 28th 2013 we began our tour with four guides (Willy Cornejo - Miguel Triveño – Diego Navía and myself Ramiro Cortez SG) young spirited and eager to continue learning the art of sailing in rivers with rapids up to Class V (rafting) along with our wonderful driver 4 * 4 Victor climbed to the snow to reach 5,050 meters and go down to Lloja (4,200 m), where unusually divided the two extremes of nature: the cold and desolate hills to the south and the north, the imposing green mountains that tell you NOT enter through the dense jungle and distant repeatedly makes you think a decision like this.

Three days of sacrifice, sweat and unexplained pain on my knees - ankles and all parts of our bodies had to weigh when making the descent  loading our equipment and 2,520 m with a slope very strong and almost vertical with food and our boat NRS with 50 kilos of weight.

This effort NOT distorts us worse morals to resign. I told my guides "is a journey of no return".
We started this fall by a newly aperturate way (if we can call path), with winding bends and infinite, we wondered, where is the town? , After the first rest day at 3,600 m. encountering majestic clouds covered us with her mantle and humidity, but it was too little rest, by the intense cold.
But, the following day, very early we organize better, taking turns to carry the heavier equipment.

After 6 hours of walking we reached the end of the gap where there is no more road, after an analysis we decided to return to a corner to find the path that leads us to Q'ory Mayu, then we saw two children coming down to meet with his dad (John Heredia Q'ory Mayu leader), we decided that would lower me with them to the village to hire mules, for me those hours was a nightmare and also for my guides because the place had no water, despite the greenish, we despair with weariness - sweat - heat and also the great effort to carry our heavy  equipment.

I took that shortcut ,seemed an infinite vertical line stands with small snail-shaped passages that made my tired knees buckled often losing control and despair to find the river gradually made itself heard ..and after 3 hours in the late afternoon happily  I reached  the stream and the first thing I did was dip my head and drink water all I could ..

Later at school in Q'ory Mayu I could speak with Leaders and Tito Costana a young man who was the carrier on his mules our heavy equipment and especially brought water to my thirsty and desperate guides.

On the third day we gathered our equipment and took a rest.

Finally the fourth day we headed mules accompanied by some villagers to the meeting of the rivers (Altamachi and Q'ory Mayu) with white water but cold, I said to myself thanks for the volume of water was the least we need to start navigating because I really DO NOT want to walk more.

We inflated the boat, making sure the whole equipment were sure and  we said goodbye to our friends from Q'hory Mayu and start navigating athe river unknown, that a few minutes later stumbled upon fallen trees - huge boulders that prevented the descent was intense navigation because the obstacles and difficulties of  the river, we fences – we were about to turn us several times because we aground with huge rocks and shallow river made me think of a very rapid deterioration of our NRS raft boat but I saw that his material building called ORCA left us impressed by its flexibility - hardness, abrasion resistance, It was amazing.

On the second day of sailing  close at noon we reach the junction with River MAL PASO and we were amazing for the place, because its waters too emerald green crystal, surrounded a sandy beach where we saw lots of animal tracks; Suddenly and with surprise I spotted several fish on the shore, I yelled at Willy and he throw his line with a hook, it was amazing when the water golden jump broke his line and how quickly peak fish. Miguel released without thinking twice this time catching a beautiful fish called  "Dorado" like Willy on his second attempt, then decided to rest and sleep on site preparing a delicious grilled "chapapeado of  Dorado" that was a delicious lunch and dinner .

That night after watching the starry sky was clouded by little and dropped a thin, but fine droplets of water that seemed more snow, but in the jungle! amazing ! I did not how  to call.  After that I try to sleep but it was very little, because of animals tracks plowed into my head – I feed the fire - I had to make two bombs thunder (not carry weapons to rocket noisy).

When starting the third day of sailing I saw a Jukumari (Andean Bear) on the banks of the river, watched in silence, filming with my battered achieve water chamber. It was beautiful to watch him and he show us that we should be very strong as him, for it was a day of pure adrenaline - stress - tiredness etc.. A furious rapids grand canyon some who spilled water on several channels difficult step we crashed against huge rocks that tightened with the current, the boat was full of water prevented more weight to turn around - Willy fell but was Very fast your reaction and we upload him, really I was never with so much adrenaline and concentration because the rapids are coming one by one, they continued faster and faster.

We had to leave rapid inspections (cauteo) because it wore us our effort and undermined our strength to walk or jump from rock to rock up and down. Many times I fell tired of this task so we decided to venture down the rapids without inspection and said "that come what may” and with increased the flow and joining the river Pampa Grande, these became more intense due to their complexity and enormous rocks, we were forced to hit with waves two or more meters frantically trying to turn our powerful boat, It was an day where we had a full  adrenaline,
screaming for paddling and give us more encouragement.
What satisfaction!, waves beat but the mystery was seen in our faces to hear the roar of another rapid, How are they..? we wondered in silence. At the end for about 4 pm we decided to find a good place, and decided fo a beach, call the oracle of black ants, they nested in the bushes of the place.

Very, very tired I examined  the chart of navegation .Willy cooked - Miguel and Diego assembling the tent. My boys looks very exhausted , I understood their desperation and wanting to finish the expedition.  By the fire I spoke to them about our tiredness was due to the hike, which path our forces, and we should replace those lost days Browsing earlier.
The next goal was to reach the junction with St. Helena River and from there we would move faster with more water, but on the other hand will be more difficult to overcome the rapids I said.

Earlier we went to sleep, but it was a resounding roar that stop us, we left the tent swiftly and wonder: what animal is that? I do not know I guess a leopard I said and
and immediately lit bonfires around the ten, throw firecrackers intermittently, I slept very little, since we woke up at the slightest sound.

Willy wake up very early to prepare breakfast, we talk about  to regulate food and after to have a breakfast we started navigation  at 07:00 early with low clouds,  beautiful landscapes, sounds typical of fast waves that forces us to take the necessary precautions and be ready for any contingency.

We stop and look for the appropriate path in the river and make a channel that we do not hinder navigation on the fast waves after about 20 minutes surprised to see Willy - Diego Miguel  initiating fast crossing, all I had to do is to take my camera and film them,
but I see the boat crash and fall to Willy, but this did not take long to fall than to climb into the boat, I told them that we can not take a risk for our lives.

We started with faster browsing, we feel the adrenaline of seeing our faces surprised by the huge waves,
fatigue makes us decide no more inspections to the river.
Let the waves come faster  we shouted.. and we saw happening one after another-there is no time to think or get off to take pictures, were simultaneous declines for white water.

We saw a new stream rather darker than the Altamachi, we stopped, we saw the GPS and the map, we are just at the junction with the River St. Helena we where very happy  
because we moved faster paddling steadily.

This day just beyond the encounter with the Santa Elena river we had a large and mischievous fast waves we crashed on some rocks, and again the boat was filled with water, I yelled, weighted tip, all sway, until the boat reached his weight and initiated a turn too fast and try to reach my location, we hit a new rock, water dropping me off balance with one foot anchored the boat, my paddle got under the boat, I'm a few seconds, but for me was an eternity with the head under water, I stretched, I go out and we continue to control the boat turns without them cry I'm fine, yelling back later ..... Willy  took control, then a big wave at the end of rapid surprised!  I thought it was going to flip us, they nailed their oars shout ing.. now! (
nailing it right on the wave paddle) spent, shout for joy, courage, fear I do not for what but we shouted like crazy to greenish dumb world of the jungle.

After a few hours the rapid decrease in intensity and size and close at 3 in the afternoon we saw some children playing in a stream, we stopped; shouted hello and they came with his father who was carrying a shotgun scared us a little, we talk and asked several things
and at the end it turned out that a 1 hour place and motor boats arrived, In that place there are those who clear forests (loggers), from this point iPiri stream, we saw more human settlements; decided to camp by the camp of loggers who surprised by our presence offered a grilled fish (sabalo of enormous size ) prepare a lot of food  to satisfy the hunger for several days that we measure ourselves.

On arrival the balsa owner chatted in the price to take us to Covendo; since our finally was getting to spend the rapids - told us that there are very large puddles from the junction with the river Cotacajes (I already know it because in another time I went down his river). We deflate the boat slept very peacefully.
We fix things and we left with other people to Huachi where we took a van to Caranavi – then to La Paz  and finally to Cochabamba.
In my years and experiences of this nature never happens so excited so stressed - so tense - overflowing with adrenaline, screaming - laughing - calm - so surprised. And now I feel I made the best of my prowess.

The river and its environment Altamachi I describe it as wild, virgin, cold, cautious, enigmatic, in short lovely and beautiful.

Feeling happy and satisfied, now analyzed in my silence and solitude that every human when vehemently intends to achieve goals and objectives there is no obstacle - no fear because it is in your mind, in your spirit the confidence to overcome the hardest things and there begins the challenge of the winners.

In planning and implementing something different than the others; LOCO call me but I think I'm more sane than others and they are CRAZY, which makes your life a routine, overcome fears gives you more safety and security gives quiet triumphs . No matter what I won, as someone asked me, interprets my silence and my smile Wonderful Life strongest emotions.


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RANABOL  pionera en los emprendimientos del Turismo Aventura  ubicado en plena carretera te  ofrece los servicios mencionados con todas las normas de seguridad; equipos modernos necesarios para estas actividades y guías entrenados en condiciones Más rigurosas; razón por lo que te invitamos a efectuar un recorrido a través de nuestras fotos y videos para que te animes a realizar un TURISMO de AVENTURA con la calidad y seguridad que TÜ te mereces en tu próxima visita al Chapare.
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