DESCONOCIDO “ALTAMACHI” el río VIRGEN
ÚLTIMO REFUGIO DE VIDA ANIMAL
El río ALTAMACHI se encuentra entre las cordilleras de Cocapata
(departamento de Cochabamba) y la de Mosetenes (departamento del Beni) en
BOLIVIA – Sud América.
Sus aguas nacen en las cumbres de toda la cordillera cerca de la
población de ALTAMACHI y Miscuni.
Esta expedición deseada por años por lo inexplorado del río, zona
virgen y por las leyendas tejidas de un magnífico tesoro guardado en sus entrañas, fue
sin duda los deseos que animaron a ejecutarlo.
Me imagine lo difícil que sería de ingresar a su lecho, por la falta de
caminos, más aún NO teniendo una cartografía completa del lugar. Decidí salir del fascinante y oculto mito de
interrogantes y leyendas escritas sobre este lugar como las tres tetillas – el
rio de Oro (Qóry Mayu) - el gran tapado –
peces y animales enormes etc.
El día viernes 28 de Julio de 2013 iniciamos nuestro recorrido con
cuatro guías ( Willy Cornejo – Miguel Triveño – Diego Navía y mi persona Ramiro Cortez S.G.) jóvenes briosos y ansiosos de seguir
aprendiendo el arte de navegar en ríos con rápidos de hasta clase V (rafting)
junto a nuestro magnífico conductor del 4*4 Víctor ascendimos a las cumbres nevadas hasta
alcanzar los 5.050 mts e ir descendiendo
hasta Lloja (4.200 m), lugar donde insólitamente se dividen los dos
extremos de la naturaleza: el frió y los
cerros desolados al sud y al norte las imponentes serranías verdes que te dicen
NO ingresar por la espesura de la selva distante y que te hace pensar varias
veces a una decisión como esta.
Tres días de sacrificio, sudor y un dolor inexplicable sobre mis
rodillas – tobillos y todas las partes
de nuestros cuerpos tuvimos que sopesar al efectuar el descenso cargando
nuestros equipos y descender 2.520 m con una pendiente muy fuerte y casi
vertical con víveres y nuestro bote NRS
con 50 kilos de peso.
Este esfuerzo NO nos doblego la moral peor a renunciar. Les dije a mis
Guías “Es un viaje sin retorno”.
Iniciamos este descenso por un camino recién aperturado (si
podemos llamarlo camino), con recodos serpenteantes e infinitos; nos preguntábamos ¡donde está el poblado! , al
término del primer día descansamos a 3.600
m topando con las nubes majestuosas que
nos cubrieron con su manto y humedad, pero fue muy poco el reposo, por el intenso
frío.
Ya al día siguiente, muy temprano nos organizamos mejor, turnándonos a llevar el equipo más pesado.
Después de 6 horas de caminata llegamos al final de la brecha donde no existe
más camino; luego de un análisis decidimos retornar hasta un recodo para encontrar la senda que nos conduzca a Q´ory
Mayu, ahí divisamos a dos niños que
bajaban al encuentro con su papá (Juan Heredia dirigente de Q´ory Mayu) ,
decidimos que mi persona bajaría junto a ellos hasta el poblado para contratar mulas;
para Mí fue una pesadilla esas horas y seguro para mis
guías puesto que la falta de agua en el lugar, pese a lo verdusco; nos desespero por el cansancio – sudor – calor
y el esfuerzo por llevar nuestro
equipaje.
Tomé ese atajo que parecía una línea vertical de infinitas gradas con pequeños pasadizos en forma de
caracol que hacían que mis rodillas se doblaran de cansancio perdiendo muchas
veces el control y la desesperación de encontrar el río que poco a poco se
hacía escuchar; después de 3 horas y al
finalizar la tarde felizmente llegue al riachuelo y lo primero que hice fue zambullir
mi cabeza y tomar agua todo lo que podía..
Más tarde ya en la escuela de Q´ory Mayu pude hablar con los Dirigentes
y Tito Costaña un joven que fue el
transportador del equipaje más pesado en sus mulas y sobre todo llevó agua a
mis sedientos y desesperados guías.
Al tercer día reunimos nuestros equipajes y tomarnos un descanso
reparador.
Finalmente el cuarto día nos dirigimos con mulas acompañados de algunos pobladores hasta el
encuentro de los ríos ( Altamachi y Q´ory Mayu) con aguas blancas pero frías,
gracias me dije por el volumen de agua; era lo mínimo que necesitamos para iniciar la
navegación porque de verdad NO deseaba
caminar más.
Inflamos el bote, aseguramos todo el equipo, nos despedimos de nuestros amigos de Q´hory
Mayu e iniciamos la navegación por un río
desconocido; que a los pocos minutos tropezamos con árboles caídos – enormes
rocas que evitaban el descenso; la navegación fue intensa por las trabas y
dificultades que nos dio el río, pasamos empalizadas – estuvimos a punto de voltearnos
varias veces porque encallamos con las rocas enormes y la poca profundidad de
río me hacía pensar en un deterioro muy rápido de nuestra balsa NRS , pero vi
que su material de construcción llamada ORCA nos dejo impresionados por su flexibilidad – dureza a la
abrasión, fue increíble su resistencia.
En la segunda jornada de navegación y cerca al medio día llegamos a la
unión con el río MAL PASO y quedamos maravillados por el lugar, sus aguas
demasiadas cristalinas de color verde esmeralda, rodeaban una playa de fina
arena donde observamos infinidad de huellas de animales; Repentinamente y con
sorpresa divise varios peces en la orilla, le grite a Willy y el lanzo su linea
con anzuelo; fue increíble cuando el dorado que salto del agua rompió su línea
y la rapidez con que pico el pez. Miguel ni corto ni perezoso lanzo esta vez atrapando un hermoso espécimen “Dorado”
al igual que Willy en su segundo intento, Luego decidimos descansar y dormir en
el lugar preparando a la brasa un rico “ chapapeado de dorado” que fue un suculento
almuerzo-cena.
Esa noche después de ver el cielo estrellado de apoco se fue nublando y
dejo caer unas finas, pero finas gotas
de agua que parecían más nevada, ¡ pero en la selva! increíble no se que llamarlo. Dormí muy poco,
porque las huellas de animales surcaron en mi cabeza – alimente la fogata –
tuve que hacer tronar dos petardos (no llevamos armas más que cohetes
ruidosos).
Al iniciar el tercer día de navegación vimos un Jukumari (Oso andino) a
orillas del río, lo observamos en silencio, logre filmar con mi
maltrecha cámara de agua. Fue hermoso verlo y nos presagio que debíamos tener mucha
fuerza como él; porque fue un día de pura adrenalina – esfuerzo -
cansancio etc. Un gran cañón de rápidos
furiosos algunos de los que desparramaban el agua por varios canales nos
dificultaba el paso chocamos contra enormes rocas que nos apretaba con la corriente,
el bote se lleno de agua mas el peso impedía que se volteara – Willy se cayó
pero fue muy rápida su reacción y logramos subirlo, de verdad nunca estuve con tanta adrenalina y concentración
porque los rápidos se venían de uno en uno; luego de un lecho tranquilo se continuaba con más y más rápidos.
Dejamos las inspecciones de los rápidos (cauteo) ya que nos desgastaba
y minaba nuestras fuerzas al caminar o saltar de roca en roca subiendo y
bajando; muchas veces me caí; cansados
de esta tarea decidimos aventurarnos por
los rápidos sin inspección y dije “que venga lo que venga” y con
aumento del caudal al unirse el río Pampa
Grande, estos se hicieron más
intensos por su complejidad y sus
enormes rocas; nos obligaban a chocar
con olas de dos o más metros que
intentaban frenéticamente voltear nuestro poderoso bote, fue un día donde teníamos
la adrenalina a flor de piel – se gritaba
para remar o darnos más aliento.
Que satisfacción vencer un rápido, pero la incógnita se veía en nuestros rostros
al escuchar el rugido de otro rápido; como será….? nos preguntábamos en silencio; al final a eso de las 4 de tarde decidimos
buscar un buen lugar, y decidí por una
playa , la llame el oráculo de las hormigas negras, las mismas anidaban en los arbustos del
lugar.
Muy pero muy cansado examiné la carta de navegación; Willy cocinaba –
Miguel y Diego armaban la carpa. Los vi muy exhaustos a mis muchachos, comprendí
su desesperación de querer terminar la expedición; junto al fuego les hable que nuestro cansancio
se debía a la caminata, que mino nuestras fuerzas, y que debíamos reponer esos
días perdidos navegando más temprano La siguiente meta fue alcanzar la unión
con el río Santa Elena y desde ahí avanzaríamos más rápido con mayor volumen de
agua; pero por otro lado se pondrá más dificultoso para vencer los rápidos les
dije.
Temprano nos echamos a dormir, pero fue un rugido estrepitoso que nos
paro los pelos, salimos raudamente de la carpa y nos preguntamos: que animal será? No lo sé
supongo un leopardo les dije y de inmediato encendimos más hogueras alrededor
de la carpa; lance petardos de manera intermitente;
dormimos muy poco, ya que saltábamos al
menor ruido.
Fue Willy que se levanto muy temprano a preparar el desayuno, le hable
para regular los alimentos y luego de una avena con leche iniciamos la navegación
a las 07:00 muy temprano con nubes bajas,
con paisajes muy bonitos; con los ruidos
propios de los rápidos que nos obliga a tomar los recaudos necesario y estar
listos para cualquier contingencia.
Hacemos una parada y busco el
recorrido adecuado en el río y lograr un cauce que no nos dificulte la
navegación en el rápido; luego de unos 20
minutos veo sorprendido a Willy – Miguel y Diego que inician el cruce
del rápido, lo único que atino es a sacar mi cámara para filmarlos; pero veo a Willy caer de su puesto al chocar con una
roca , pero creo que tardo más en caer que en subir al bote, los reuní y les
llame la atención porque NO podemos arriesgarnos les dije.
Reiniciamos la navegación con más rápidos, la adrenalina de siente al ver
nuestras caras sorprendidos por las enormes olas, el cansancio nos hace
presa de no realizar más inspecciones al
río
.
Que vengan los rápidos! Gritábamos.., así vimos pasando uno tras otro;
no existe tiempo para pensar o bajarse a sacar fotos, fueron simultáneos los
descensos por aguas blancas.
Divisamos una nueva corriente de
agua bastante más oscura que la del Altamachi, paramos, vimos el GPS y la carta,
justo estamos en la unión con el río Santa Helena nos alegramos porque
avanzamos muchísimo al ritmo acelerado remando de manera constante.
Este día justo mas allá del encuentro con el Santa Elena pasamos
un gran y malicioso rápido que nos estrello sobre unas rocas ; nuevamente el bote se llenó de agua, les
grité, peso en la punta, todos balanceamos, hasta que el bote alivió su peso e inició un giro muy rápido e intento
alcanzar mi ubicación, chocamos con una nueva roca, me desequilibró cayendo al
agua con un pie anclado al bote, mi remo se metió bajo el bote; estoy unos
segundos, pero para mi es una eternidad con la cabeza bajo el agua; me estiran
, salgo y continuamos dando giros sin
mando del bote les grito estoy bien,
vuelvo a gritar adelante ….. Willy ya tomo el control, luego una ola muy grande
al final del rápido nos sorprendió, pensé que nos iba a voltear; les grite ¡claven sus remos… ¡ ¡ ahora! (clavar es remar justo en la ola para que no nos
haga retornar), pasamos, gritamos de gusto de alegría de temor de valentía no
se de qué, pero gritamos, como locos al mundo mudo verdusco de la selva.
Luego de unas horas los rápidos disminuyeron su intensidad y tamaño ya cerca a las 3 de la
tarde vimos a unos niños jugando en un arroyo, paramos; hola amigo grite se acercaron junto a su padre
que cargaba una escopeta nos atemorizo un poco, hablamos y nos preguntaron
varias cosas así como nosotros los hicimos y al final resultamos que a una hora
del lugar ya llegan los botes a motor. Y que allá están los que talan los
bosques (leñadores); desde este punto arroyo Ipiri; vimos
mas asentamientos humanos; decidimos acampar junto al campamento de los
leñadores quienes sorprendidos por nuestra presencia nos ofrecieron un
pescado asado a las brasas (sábalo de enorme tamaño) preparamos la comida
con muchos víveres y charque hasta saciar el hambre que por varios días nos
medimos .
A la llegada del dueño de la balsa conversamos en el precio para que
nos lleve hasta Covendo; puesto que nuestro fín era llegar a pasar los rápidos –
nos dijo que ya son pozas muy grandes desde la unión con el río Cotacajes (ya
lo conozco pues baje en otra oportunidad este
río). Desinflamos el bote dormimos muy tranquilos. Arreglamos las cosas
y partimos junto a otras personas hasta Huachi donde tomamos una vagoneta a
Caranavi – de ahí a la Paz y luego a
Cochabamba.
En mis años y experiencias de esta naturaleza nunca pase tan emocionado
tan estresado – tan tenso – con la adrenalina desbordando; gritando – riendo – calmado –
sorprendido etc. Y ahora siento que realice
la mejor de mis proezas.
Al río Altamachí y su entorno lo
describo como salvaje, virgen, frio, cauteloso; enigmático; en resumen hermoso y bello.
Sentirme feliz y satisfecho, hoy
analizó en mi silencio y soledad que todo ser humano cuando se propone
vehementemente de alcanzar metas y objetivos no existe obstáculo – ni
miedo porque está en tu mente, en tu
espíritu la confianza para vencer las cosas más difíciles y ahí comienza el
reto de los triunfadores.
Al planificar y ejecutar algo diferente que los demás; me llaman LOCO pero creo que soy más cuerdo que los demás y los LOCOS son ellos, los que hacen de su vida una rutina; vencer
miedos te da más seguridad y la seguridad te da triunfos silenciosos. No
importa que gané, como alguien me pregunto; interpreta mi silencio y mi sonrisa que
bello es vivir las emociones más fuertes.
RAMIRO CORTEZ S.G.
RANABOL ADVENTURE
71717097 – 71465553
UNKNOWN
"Altamachi" VIRGIN River
ULTIMATE WILDLIFE REFUGE
Altamachi River is among the ridges of Cocapata (Cochabamba) and Mosetenes (Beni) in BOLIVIA - South America.
Its headwaters are on the tops of all the mountains near the town of Altamachi and Miscuni.
This expedition was desired for many years for being an unexplored river, unspoiled and legends woven a magnificent treasure stored in his heart, was certainly encouraged desires that run.
I imagine how difficult it would be to enter the river, lack of roads, especially NOT having a complete map of the place. I decided to leave the fascinating and hidden myth and legends written questions about this place as the three nipples - the Rio de Oro (Qory Mayu) - the large covered - so huge fish and animals.
On Friday July 28th 2013 we began our tour with four guides (Willy Cornejo - Miguel Triveño – Diego Navía and myself Ramiro Cortez SG) young spirited and eager to continue learning the art of sailing in rivers with rapids up to Class V (rafting) along with our wonderful driver 4 * 4 Victor climbed to the snow to reach 5,050 meters and go down to Lloja (4,200 m), where unusually divided the two extremes of nature: the cold and desolate hills to the south and the north, the imposing green mountains that tell you NOT enter through the dense jungle and distant repeatedly makes you think a decision like this.
Three days of sacrifice, sweat and unexplained pain on my knees - ankles and all parts of our bodies had to weigh when making the descent loading our equipment and 2,520 m with a slope very strong and almost vertical with food and our boat NRS with 50 kilos of weight.
This effort NOT distorts us worse morals to resign. I told my guides "is a journey of no return".
We started this fall by a newly aperturate way (if we can call path), with winding bends and infinite, we wondered, where is the town? , After the first rest day at 3,600 m. encountering majestic clouds covered us with her mantle and humidity, but it was too little rest, by the intense cold.
But, the following day, very early we organize better, taking turns to carry the heavier equipment.
After 6 hours of walking we reached the end of the gap where there is no more road, after an analysis we decided to return to a corner to find the path that leads us to Q'ory Mayu, then we saw two children coming down to meet with his dad (John Heredia Q'ory Mayu leader), we decided that would lower me with them to the village to hire mules, for me those hours was a nightmare and also for my guides because the place had no water, despite the greenish, we despair with weariness - sweat - heat and also the great effort to carry our heavy equipment.
I took that shortcut ,seemed an infinite vertical line stands with small snail-shaped passages that made my tired knees buckled often losing control and despair to find the river gradually made itself heard ..and after 3 hours in the late afternoon happily I reached the stream and the first thing I did was dip my head and drink water all I could ..
Later at school in Q'ory Mayu I could speak with Leaders and Tito Costana a young man who was the carrier on his mules our heavy equipment and especially brought water to my thirsty and desperate guides.
On the third day we gathered our equipment and took a rest.
Finally the fourth day we headed mules accompanied by some villagers to the meeting of the rivers (Altamachi and Q'ory Mayu) with white water but cold, I said to myself thanks for the volume of water was the least we need to start navigating because I really DO NOT want to walk more.
We inflated the boat, making sure the whole equipment were sure and we said goodbye to our friends from Q'hory Mayu and start navigating athe river unknown, that a few minutes later stumbled upon fallen trees - huge boulders that prevented the descent was intense navigation because the obstacles and difficulties of the river, we fences – we were about to turn us several times because we aground with huge rocks and shallow river made me think of a very rapid deterioration of our NRS raft boat but I saw that his material building called ORCA left us impressed by its flexibility - hardness, abrasion resistance, It was amazing.
On the second day of sailing close at noon we reach the junction with River MAL PASO and we were amazing for the place, because its waters too emerald green crystal, surrounded a sandy beach where we saw lots of animal tracks; Suddenly and with surprise I spotted several fish on the shore, I yelled at Willy and he throw his line with a hook, it was amazing when the water golden jump broke his line and how quickly peak fish. Miguel released without thinking twice this time catching a beautiful fish called "Dorado" like Willy on his second attempt, then decided to rest and sleep on site preparing a delicious grilled "chapapeado of Dorado" that was a delicious lunch and dinner .
That night after watching the starry sky was clouded by little and dropped a thin, but fine droplets of water that seemed more snow, but in the jungle! amazing ! I did not how to call. After that I try to sleep but it was very little, because of animals tracks plowed into my head – I feed the fire - I had to make two bombs thunder (not carry weapons to rocket noisy).
When starting the third day of sailing I saw a Jukumari (Andean Bear) on the banks of the river, watched in silence, filming with my battered achieve water chamber. It was beautiful to watch him and he show us that we should be very strong as him, for it was a day of pure adrenaline - stress - tiredness etc.. A furious rapids grand canyon some who spilled water on several channels difficult step we crashed against huge rocks that tightened with the current, the boat was full of water prevented more weight to turn around - Willy fell but was Very fast your reaction and we upload him, really I was never with so much adrenaline and concentration because the rapids are coming one by one, they continued faster and faster.
We had to leave rapid inspections (cauteo) because it wore us our effort and undermined our strength to walk or jump from rock to rock up and down. Many times I fell tired of this task so we decided to venture down the rapids without inspection and said "that come what may” and with increased the flow and joining the river Pampa Grande, these became more intense due to their complexity and enormous rocks, we were forced to hit with waves two or more meters frantically trying to turn our powerful boat, It was an day where we had a full adrenaline, screaming for paddling and give us more encouragement.
What satisfaction!, waves beat but the mystery was seen in our faces to hear the roar of another rapid, How are they..? we wondered in silence. At the end for about 4 pm we decided to find a good place, and decided fo a beach, call the oracle of black ants, they nested in the bushes of the place.
Very, very tired I examined the chart of navegation .Willy cooked - Miguel and Diego assembling the tent. My boys looks very exhausted , I understood their desperation and wanting to finish the expedition. By the fire I spoke to them about our tiredness was due to the hike, which path our forces, and we should replace those lost days Browsing earlier. The next goal was to reach the junction with St. Helena River and from there we would move faster with more water, but on the other hand will be more difficult to overcome the rapids I said.
Earlier we went to sleep, but it was a resounding roar that stop us, we left the tent swiftly and wonder: what animal is that? I do not know I guess a leopard I said and and immediately lit bonfires around the ten, throw firecrackers intermittently, I slept very little, since we woke up at the slightest sound.
Willy wake up very early to prepare breakfast, we talk about to regulate food and after to have a breakfast we started navigation at 07:00 early with low clouds, beautiful landscapes, sounds typical of fast waves that forces us to take the necessary precautions and be ready for any contingency.
We stop and look for the appropriate path in the river and make a channel that we do not hinder navigation on the fast waves after about 20 minutes surprised to see Willy - Diego Miguel initiating fast crossing, all I had to do is to take my camera and film them, but I see the boat crash and fall to Willy, but this did not take long to fall than to climb into the boat, I told them that we can not take a risk for our lives.
We started with faster browsing, we feel the adrenaline of seeing our faces surprised by the huge waves, fatigue makes us decide no more inspections to the river.
.
Let the waves come faster we shouted.. and we saw happening one after another-there is no time to think or get off to take pictures, were simultaneous declines for white water.
We saw a new stream rather darker than the Altamachi, we stopped, we saw the GPS and the map, we are just at the junction with the River St. Helena we where very happy because we moved faster paddling steadily.
This day just beyond the encounter with the Santa Elena river we had a large and mischievous fast waves we crashed on some rocks, and again the boat was filled with water, I yelled, weighted tip, all sway, until the boat reached his weight and initiated a turn too fast and try to reach my location, we hit a new rock, water dropping me off balance with one foot anchored the boat, my paddle got under the boat, I'm a few seconds, but for me was an eternity with the head under water, I stretched, I go out and we continue to control the boat turns without them cry I'm fine, yelling back later ..... Willy took control, then a big wave at the end of rapid surprised! I thought it was going to flip us, they nailed their oars shout ing.. now! (nailing it right on the wave paddle) spent, shout for joy, courage, fear I do not for what but we shouted like crazy to greenish dumb world of the jungle.
After a few hours the rapid decrease in intensity and size and close at 3 in the afternoon we saw some children playing in a stream, we stopped; shouted hello and they came with his father who was carrying a shotgun scared us a little, we talk and asked several things and at the end it turned out that a 1 hour place and motor boats arrived, In that place there are those who clear forests (loggers), from this point iPiri stream, we saw more human settlements; decided to camp by the camp of loggers who surprised by our presence offered a grilled fish (sabalo of enormous size ) prepare a lot of food to satisfy the hunger for several days that we measure ourselves.
On arrival the balsa owner chatted in the price to take us to Covendo; since our finally was getting to spend the rapids - told us that there are very large puddles from the junction with the river Cotacajes (I already know it because in another time I went down his river). We deflate the boat slept very peacefully. We fix things and we left with other people to Huachi where we took a van to Caranavi – then to La Paz and finally to Cochabamba.
ULTIMATE WILDLIFE REFUGE
Altamachi River is among the ridges of Cocapata (Cochabamba) and Mosetenes (Beni) in BOLIVIA - South America.
Its headwaters are on the tops of all the mountains near the town of Altamachi and Miscuni.
This expedition was desired for many years for being an unexplored river, unspoiled and legends woven a magnificent treasure stored in his heart, was certainly encouraged desires that run.
I imagine how difficult it would be to enter the river, lack of roads, especially NOT having a complete map of the place. I decided to leave the fascinating and hidden myth and legends written questions about this place as the three nipples - the Rio de Oro (Qory Mayu) - the large covered - so huge fish and animals.
On Friday July 28th 2013 we began our tour with four guides (Willy Cornejo - Miguel Triveño – Diego Navía and myself Ramiro Cortez SG) young spirited and eager to continue learning the art of sailing in rivers with rapids up to Class V (rafting) along with our wonderful driver 4 * 4 Victor climbed to the snow to reach 5,050 meters and go down to Lloja (4,200 m), where unusually divided the two extremes of nature: the cold and desolate hills to the south and the north, the imposing green mountains that tell you NOT enter through the dense jungle and distant repeatedly makes you think a decision like this.
Three days of sacrifice, sweat and unexplained pain on my knees - ankles and all parts of our bodies had to weigh when making the descent loading our equipment and 2,520 m with a slope very strong and almost vertical with food and our boat NRS with 50 kilos of weight.
This effort NOT distorts us worse morals to resign. I told my guides "is a journey of no return".
We started this fall by a newly aperturate way (if we can call path), with winding bends and infinite, we wondered, where is the town? , After the first rest day at 3,600 m. encountering majestic clouds covered us with her mantle and humidity, but it was too little rest, by the intense cold.
But, the following day, very early we organize better, taking turns to carry the heavier equipment.
After 6 hours of walking we reached the end of the gap where there is no more road, after an analysis we decided to return to a corner to find the path that leads us to Q'ory Mayu, then we saw two children coming down to meet with his dad (John Heredia Q'ory Mayu leader), we decided that would lower me with them to the village to hire mules, for me those hours was a nightmare and also for my guides because the place had no water, despite the greenish, we despair with weariness - sweat - heat and also the great effort to carry our heavy equipment.
I took that shortcut ,seemed an infinite vertical line stands with small snail-shaped passages that made my tired knees buckled often losing control and despair to find the river gradually made itself heard ..and after 3 hours in the late afternoon happily I reached the stream and the first thing I did was dip my head and drink water all I could ..
Later at school in Q'ory Mayu I could speak with Leaders and Tito Costana a young man who was the carrier on his mules our heavy equipment and especially brought water to my thirsty and desperate guides.
On the third day we gathered our equipment and took a rest.
Finally the fourth day we headed mules accompanied by some villagers to the meeting of the rivers (Altamachi and Q'ory Mayu) with white water but cold, I said to myself thanks for the volume of water was the least we need to start navigating because I really DO NOT want to walk more.
We inflated the boat, making sure the whole equipment were sure and we said goodbye to our friends from Q'hory Mayu and start navigating athe river unknown, that a few minutes later stumbled upon fallen trees - huge boulders that prevented the descent was intense navigation because the obstacles and difficulties of the river, we fences – we were about to turn us several times because we aground with huge rocks and shallow river made me think of a very rapid deterioration of our NRS raft boat but I saw that his material building called ORCA left us impressed by its flexibility - hardness, abrasion resistance, It was amazing.
On the second day of sailing close at noon we reach the junction with River MAL PASO and we were amazing for the place, because its waters too emerald green crystal, surrounded a sandy beach where we saw lots of animal tracks; Suddenly and with surprise I spotted several fish on the shore, I yelled at Willy and he throw his line with a hook, it was amazing when the water golden jump broke his line and how quickly peak fish. Miguel released without thinking twice this time catching a beautiful fish called "Dorado" like Willy on his second attempt, then decided to rest and sleep on site preparing a delicious grilled "chapapeado of Dorado" that was a delicious lunch and dinner .
That night after watching the starry sky was clouded by little and dropped a thin, but fine droplets of water that seemed more snow, but in the jungle! amazing ! I did not how to call. After that I try to sleep but it was very little, because of animals tracks plowed into my head – I feed the fire - I had to make two bombs thunder (not carry weapons to rocket noisy).
When starting the third day of sailing I saw a Jukumari (Andean Bear) on the banks of the river, watched in silence, filming with my battered achieve water chamber. It was beautiful to watch him and he show us that we should be very strong as him, for it was a day of pure adrenaline - stress - tiredness etc.. A furious rapids grand canyon some who spilled water on several channels difficult step we crashed against huge rocks that tightened with the current, the boat was full of water prevented more weight to turn around - Willy fell but was Very fast your reaction and we upload him, really I was never with so much adrenaline and concentration because the rapids are coming one by one, they continued faster and faster.
We had to leave rapid inspections (cauteo) because it wore us our effort and undermined our strength to walk or jump from rock to rock up and down. Many times I fell tired of this task so we decided to venture down the rapids without inspection and said "that come what may” and with increased the flow and joining the river Pampa Grande, these became more intense due to their complexity and enormous rocks, we were forced to hit with waves two or more meters frantically trying to turn our powerful boat, It was an day where we had a full adrenaline, screaming for paddling and give us more encouragement.
What satisfaction!, waves beat but the mystery was seen in our faces to hear the roar of another rapid, How are they..? we wondered in silence. At the end for about 4 pm we decided to find a good place, and decided fo a beach, call the oracle of black ants, they nested in the bushes of the place.
Very, very tired I examined the chart of navegation .Willy cooked - Miguel and Diego assembling the tent. My boys looks very exhausted , I understood their desperation and wanting to finish the expedition. By the fire I spoke to them about our tiredness was due to the hike, which path our forces, and we should replace those lost days Browsing earlier. The next goal was to reach the junction with St. Helena River and from there we would move faster with more water, but on the other hand will be more difficult to overcome the rapids I said.
Earlier we went to sleep, but it was a resounding roar that stop us, we left the tent swiftly and wonder: what animal is that? I do not know I guess a leopard I said and and immediately lit bonfires around the ten, throw firecrackers intermittently, I slept very little, since we woke up at the slightest sound.
Willy wake up very early to prepare breakfast, we talk about to regulate food and after to have a breakfast we started navigation at 07:00 early with low clouds, beautiful landscapes, sounds typical of fast waves that forces us to take the necessary precautions and be ready for any contingency.
We stop and look for the appropriate path in the river and make a channel that we do not hinder navigation on the fast waves after about 20 minutes surprised to see Willy - Diego Miguel initiating fast crossing, all I had to do is to take my camera and film them, but I see the boat crash and fall to Willy, but this did not take long to fall than to climb into the boat, I told them that we can not take a risk for our lives.
We started with faster browsing, we feel the adrenaline of seeing our faces surprised by the huge waves, fatigue makes us decide no more inspections to the river.
.
Let the waves come faster we shouted.. and we saw happening one after another-there is no time to think or get off to take pictures, were simultaneous declines for white water.
We saw a new stream rather darker than the Altamachi, we stopped, we saw the GPS and the map, we are just at the junction with the River St. Helena we where very happy because we moved faster paddling steadily.
This day just beyond the encounter with the Santa Elena river we had a large and mischievous fast waves we crashed on some rocks, and again the boat was filled with water, I yelled, weighted tip, all sway, until the boat reached his weight and initiated a turn too fast and try to reach my location, we hit a new rock, water dropping me off balance with one foot anchored the boat, my paddle got under the boat, I'm a few seconds, but for me was an eternity with the head under water, I stretched, I go out and we continue to control the boat turns without them cry I'm fine, yelling back later ..... Willy took control, then a big wave at the end of rapid surprised! I thought it was going to flip us, they nailed their oars shout ing.. now! (nailing it right on the wave paddle) spent, shout for joy, courage, fear I do not for what but we shouted like crazy to greenish dumb world of the jungle.
After a few hours the rapid decrease in intensity and size and close at 3 in the afternoon we saw some children playing in a stream, we stopped; shouted hello and they came with his father who was carrying a shotgun scared us a little, we talk and asked several things and at the end it turned out that a 1 hour place and motor boats arrived, In that place there are those who clear forests (loggers), from this point iPiri stream, we saw more human settlements; decided to camp by the camp of loggers who surprised by our presence offered a grilled fish (sabalo of enormous size ) prepare a lot of food to satisfy the hunger for several days that we measure ourselves.
On arrival the balsa owner chatted in the price to take us to Covendo; since our finally was getting to spend the rapids - told us that there are very large puddles from the junction with the river Cotacajes (I already know it because in another time I went down his river). We deflate the boat slept very peacefully. We fix things and we left with other people to Huachi where we took a van to Caranavi – then to La Paz and finally to Cochabamba.
In my years and experiences of this nature never happens so excited so stressed - so tense - overflowing with adrenaline, screaming - laughing - calm - so surprised. And now I feel I made the best of my prowess.
The river and its environment Altamachi I describe it as wild, virgin, cold, cautious, enigmatic, in short lovely and beautiful.
Feeling happy and satisfied, now analyzed in my silence and solitude that every human when vehemently intends to achieve goals and objectives there is no obstacle - no fear because it is in your mind, in your spirit the confidence to overcome the hardest things and there begins the challenge of the winners.
In planning and implementing something different than the others; LOCO call me but I think I'm more sane than others and they are CRAZY, which makes your life a routine, overcome fears gives you more safety and security gives quiet triumphs . No matter what I won, as someone asked me, interprets my silence and my smile Wonderful Life strongest emotions.
¡WHAT A WONDERFUL NAVEGATION!
RAMIRO CORTEZ S. G.
RANABOLl ADVENTURE
ranabolraf@gmail.com ranabolraf@hotmail.com
71717097 to 71465553
RAMIRO CORTEZ S. G.
RANABOLl ADVENTURE
ranabolraf@gmail.com ranabolraf@hotmail.com
71717097 to 71465553
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